Our Top Four Shows of Menswear Paris Fashion Week 

Paris, France – It has been an intense season with over 60 fashion shows and presentations of the upcoming spring summer 2025 menswear collections. While some brands remained in their comfort zone in creating wearable clothing, that will for sure be doing great in sales, other were a bit more daring and stood out not only due to their looks presented but as well through the ambiance, the atmosphere they created around the collection. Amongst the strong collections, this article points out four of our favorite shows this season that created memorable moments around a beautiful narrative.

Loewe

Loewe sets the scene around a group of objects in a minimalist space, with the audience seated on the sides of the hall, giving air and focus to the middle of the room. The objects, exhibited by themselves on the floor without any display cabinets, were created by some of the most artistic voices of the 20^th century. The composition seems random, however, aims to privilege sensual pleasure over interpretation. With that being said, we can assume that the mostly golden pheasant feathers in front of the model’s faces serve a similar purpose, giving an elegant, almost coutur’esque vibe to the looks, and golden accents as a red thread throughout the collection. Taking the notion of couture further, it could almost be applied on a selection of tops presented. Look 10 as well as look 22 and 50, are made with an incredible savoir-faire and fragile details throughout with materials such as mother-of-pearl or a kind of metal net. Other tops are impressing through unusual draping amongst a variety of slim cut shirts and t-shirts. In regards of cuts, these design choices were as well applied on the trousers presented. While the draped trousers prove to be showstoppers, slim cut as well as balloon trousers build an elegant contrast and create a balanced harmony across the collection.

One element that becomes apparent when looking at the whole collection is the choice of colors. While in the past seasons Loewe was using colors as accent points, this season we see mainly dark and toned-down tones in blue, green, brown or grey. The accent throughout the whole show was the usage of gold, which was either in the detailing of the clothes or the mentioned pheasant feathers.

Dries Van Noten

With the founder’s departure, the Dries Van Noten show was for sure the most anticipated fashion show on the calendar this season. With this being said, under everyone’s watch, the brand conjured up a collection that is not only referencing past fashion highlights through little elements such as the models chosen as well as the runway, which is referencing Van Noten’s Fall/Winter 06/07 show. It is a collection that proved Dries Van Noten’s innovative approach on making clothing not only a fashion statement but making them wearable. It is a collection that starts its first half with dark tones, such as dark blues, browns or black mixed with beige pieces, mostly consisting of more serious cuts. The second half is brightening through the experimental material combinations, flowy cuts, the usage of colors such as pinks, yellow or orange, and the introduction to prints.

This usage of colors, textiles and cuts, can be put in relation to Van Noten’s message “Tonight is many things, but it is not a grand finale.” Indicating that this is not the end, but the beginning of a new chapter for both founder as well as the brand.

This show impresses not only through the collection itself but as well through the unique atmosphere that was created at the show itself through the mixture of music, scenery, audience as well as the big question of “what happens after this?”

KidSuper

This season marked KidSuper’s ninth collection and through the collaboration with Cirque du Soleil, they created one of the most outstanding shows this season. While the performance of the brand’s collaborator already set the scene on a spectacular stage, the models came out in character, merging the looks with the location, an old Parisian theatre, and the choreography of Cirque du Soleil.

Creative Director Colm Dillane, who is known for his approach on streetwear, mixed this vision together with sophistication and explored new shapes! While in previous seasons he was playing with oversized cuts that were mainly highlighting the upper body, this season he introduced cuts that are accentuating waste as we see in look five or 31. In addition to the new silhouettes, the designer started to play with lace collars that bring a mix of the 17^th century fashion and circus on his runway.

While new shapes and materials are explored, the choice of colours and prints this season are held rather toned-down with some orange, red, purple and yellow accents, compared to his previous, very colorful creations.

All in all it is a collection that is standing out as the designer was exploring a new creative side of his, that we have not yet seen. While some parts of the choreography as well as the designs do remind of Galliano’s work at Maison Margiela, KidSuper incorporated their unique aesthetic and wrote a new chapter of their rise to the top.

Rick Owens

The name of Rick Owens’ Menswear Spring/Summer 2025 collection is “Hollywood”, named “after the boulevard of vice I gleefully ran to”, as the founder and creative director states. A collection presented at the brand’s go-to location, on the terrasse of Palais du Tokyo in Paris. Under the open sky, reflecting the sunlight in the rectangular pool of water as the center of the open spaced platform of the sand-colored stone building, it is almost contrasting the exceptional location of Owens’ last show, hosted in his private Parisian apartment. This collection further contrasts Fall/Winter 2024 in terms of inspiration, as the last one was named after “the small judgmental town” Porterville Owens grew up in.

Back under the open sky of possibilities, the brand presents a collection that is all about cuts and the interplay of materials. This is accentuated through the choreography, which included eleven groups, consisting of twelve to 20 people, that were all dedicated to one look. The beauty in this goes beyond creating a memorable presentation of clothes. It shows the authentic approach the brand has on diversity. They are showing to the world that their looks are tailored to a wide range of people, that is not defined by age, ethnicity or body type. The last, something that, especially in men’s fashion, is barely celebrated anywhere else.

With their cuts not only highlighting the different body shapes, but as well, typically Rick Owens, exaggerates certain parts, a theatrical atmosphere is created, accompanied by fog.

What immediately stands out in this collection, and further contrasts it as well to the previous ones, is the choice of colors. When thinking of Rick Owens the first thing that comes to mind often is the color black. A color that usually is of high importance in most of his collections. However, in this collection the only colors used are white, variations of ecru and sand colors as well as gold.

The overall picture of the collection is very Rick Owens, yet so new. While staying true to his aesthetic the brand showed us something unexpected that sets as well a statement to the fashion industry not only about diversity but as well sustainability, as the materials are all certified by different environmental organizations.